Asorei, Selección Privada, Albariño 2022

Albariño doesn't always get the credit it deserves for ageing. Most is drunk young, which is fine, but the better examples from Rías Baixas — the ones with real concentration and vineyard ambition — reward a little patience. Terra De Asorei's Selección Privada is very much in that camp. Made from older vines and given more careful selection than the standard bottling, it has the structure and depth to develop properly in the glass and in the bottle. On the palate, it's taut and mineral-edged with white peach, citrus zest, and a saline quality that is entirely the Atlantic's doing. The texture is the giveaway that this is something above the everyday: there's a waxy richness here that coats the palate without ever feeling heavy. Drink it now with something from the sea, or hold it for another year or two and watch it knit together beautifully.