Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru 'Ecusseaux', Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils 1990

Michel Ampeau, now in his 70s, has retired after making more than 35 vintages at the family domaine created by his grandfather at the turn of the last century. The domaine covers many of the finest climats of the Côte de Beaune. For decades, however, he pursued a policy of only selling his wines when mature and, as a result, has one of the finest collections of back vintages in the whole of Burgundy. The wine-making has long been traditional. The reds are 100% de-stemmed, fermented in cement, open-topped vats at a maximum of 30C with regular pigeage and aged for up to 12 months in 10% new oak barrels. The style is one of lean, intellectual, harmonious wines where the fruit is complemented by crisp acidity and/or firm but ripe tannins. They are built to age and are fantastic partners for food. "This is a delightful surprise – fully mature but showing wisdom, not wrinkles. Ecusseaux is on the eastern boundaries of the village and touches Monthelie to the north and Meursault to the east. This has some firmness but no rusticity, the quality of this super vintage shines through – literally, with a warmth and generosity to the fruit. A really fun, rewarding bottle to produce at a tasting or dinner table." Tom, Head Wine Guru