Bourgogne Blanc 'Grand Près d'Aubigny' Monopole, Domaine d'Aubigny 2024

A single-vineyard Bourgogne Blanc with ideas above its station, 'Grand Près d'Aubigny' is a monopole, meaning Domaine d'Aubigny holds the plot entirely to itself. That's a rare thing at this level of the Burgundy hierarchy, and it shows in a wine that tastes more Village than its regional label suggests, all citrus zest and wet-stone precision rather than anything soft or forgettable. Expect pale gold in the glass, a nose of lemon pith and crushed chalk, and a palate that stays lean and nervy rather than buttery. Domaine d’Aubigny is one of those Burgundian stories that sounds made up, but isn’t. Founded in 1132 as a métairie of the Abbaye de Mézières, the estate predates Clos de Vougeot and now sits quietly in the hills above Rully, hiding one of the largest enclosed vineyards in the Côte Chalonnaise. The single clos is so vast it spans multiple appellations, which neatly explains why “Clos” will never appear on the label, bureaucracy remains undefeated. Since taking over in 2021, Kwame Onwuachi and his partners have rebuilt the domaine as a fully organic, mixed farm. High-trained vines, grassed rows, on-site livestock and total nitrogen autonomy all feed into a thoughtful, low-intervention approach. Trained in Beaune after a previous life in San Francisco tech, Kwame brings both discipline and ambition. The wines are still finding their voice, but the direction is clear, and the best bottles here are already genuinely impressive.