Brunello di Montalcino, Mastrojanni 2009

Mastrojanni's 2009 Brunello comes from one of the appellation's most respected estates, perched on the southern slopes of Montalcino above the Orcia valley. The 2009 vintage was warm and generous, producing wines of real flesh and concentration — and this one has used that ripeness wisely, without ever tipping into excess. At seventeen years old it's drinking beautifully in its stride: the tannins have softened to something almost velvet-edged, while the wine's structural backbone — that iron-and-earth character Mastrojanni does so well — keeps everything taut and alive. On the palate, expect dark cherry, dried rosemary, old leather, and a mineral salinity that lingers long after the glass is empty. This is Sangiovese at its most confident: generous enough to please now, disciplined enough to reward those who wait.