Domaine Du Calvaire De Roche-Grès, Chiroubles Sans Soufre Ajouté, Didier Desvignes 2020

Didier Desvignes farms in Chiroubles, the highest and arguably most delicate of the ten Beaujolais crus, and this no-added-sulphur bottling from the Calvaire de Roche-Grès lieu-dit is about as honest an expression of Gamay as you'll find. The altitude gives the wine a lifted, almost airy quality — cherry, wild bramble, a flicker of violet — and the absence of sulphur means everything is right there on the surface, nothing muffled. Give it fifteen minutes in a carafe and it opens right up. This is a wine for drinking with pleasure and without ceremony. The acidity is real and refreshing, the tannins are present but never pushy, and the whole thing has an effortless, thirst-quenching quality that makes it dangerously easy to pour a second glass.