Mas de Daumas Gassac, Blanc 2019

Mas de Daumas Gassac is one of the great names of the Languedoc, and its white is a rather different beast from the region’s usual sunny, easy-drinking fare. Expect Mediterranean character with a cooler, more restrained edge: layers of citrus, white peach and orchard fruit, with herbal notes, a touch of spice and a fresh, mineral finish. There’s texture here, too, giving the wine a little more to say than simply fruit and acidity. The blend is what makes it interesting: 32% Viognier, 19% Petit Manseng, 18% Chardonnay and 14% Chenin Blanc, with the remaining 17% made up of lesser-known varieties. The grapes are hand-picked, given five to seven days of skin contact, then fermented in stainless steel, with no oak ageing. The 2019 was a hot, dry vintage, but cool nights in the Gassac valley helped preserve freshness. At 14% alcohol, it has real weight, yet the acidity keeps it lively. It’s a terrific match for roast chicken, lobster, scallops or richer fish dishes, and well worth trying alongside mature cheeses.