The Great Escape Chardonnay, Thistledown, Eden Valley (2024) 2024

Thistledown is the project of two Masters of Wine, Giles Cooke and Fergal Tynan, who set out to make Australian wine that breaks the stereotype - and the name says it all. The Great Escape is their getaway from the heavy, over-oaked Chardonnay Australia was once known for. The fruit comes from cool, elevated vineyards up at 400 metres and more, where chilly nights hold onto the grape's natural acidity and give the wine its freshness and drive. The winemaking is deliberately gentle: wild-yeast fermentation, ageing in old French oak barrels and concrete eggs rather than new oak, so the focus stays on bright fruit and texture instead of toasty, buttery flavours. The result is fresh and citrus-led - lemon and grapefruit, white flowers, and a stony, mineral edge - with a creamy thread of texture underneath and a long, mouthwatering finish. Serve well chilled, around 9-11C.