Astoria, Estrò Chardonnay 2022

Astoria's Estrò Chardonnay comes from family vineyards north of Venice, in the heart of the Veneto, and it's a useful reminder that unoaked Chardonnay done well is one of the grape's most honest expressions. The grapes went through a cold maceration on the skins before fermentation, pulling out fruit character without adding weight or oxidative warmth — which is why this wine feels so lively and precise rather than soft and generous. The result is pale straw in the glass, crisp and direct on the nose with green apple and something close to fresh bread, and clean as a whistle on the palate. No oak, no butter, no fuss. Drink it now, ideally well chilled, and preferably alongside something from the sea.