Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 'Morgeot', Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 2024

Morgeot is the great workhorse premier cru of Chassagne-Montrachet, a large south-facing slope that produces some of the village's most generous and structured whites. Fontaine-Gagnard is one of Chassagne’s great traditionalists, producing some of the appellation’s most complete and age-worthy wines. Farming is resolutely old-school rather than dogmatic, with a focus on balance, density and longevity over fashion. In 2024, that restraint mattered. The vintage was hard work. High mildew pressure, early harvest beginning on 22 August, and naturally low yields around 35 hl/ha for whites and 30 for reds. A hot August pushed ripeness quickly, but September brought dilution and freshness back into play, finishing around pH 3.3–3.4. The result is a vintage of crunchy acidity, dense fruit and classical proportions, more ripe than 2013, closer in spirit to 2010, though Burgundy has changed too much for lazy comparisons. We'd give this until 2028 before pulling the cork. Hold on, and you'll be rewarded with that seamless, nutty, mineral authority that makes Chassagne premier cru one of Burgundy's most satisfying things to drink. Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is one of Tim Atkin's 2024 Top 10 Côte de Beaune White Wine Producers .